Silky Sands, Turquoise Surf

A secluded, pristine paradise just minutes off North Carolina’s southern shore.

“Bald Head Island is a beautiful, secluded resort island and a pristine nature preserve. The island supports salt marsh, rare maritime forest, and sea turtle nesting sites that combine to form a unique ecosystem. The southwest corner of the island is a vacation resort with a championship golf course bordering the beach.”

We were eye to eye with the storm, 110 feet above the ground in the top of North Carolina’s oldest standing lighthouse—Old Baldy! We stared in silence at the dark thunderhead moving steadily across the Cape Fear River toward us. Sheets of rain preceded the dark wall, which was intermittently lighted by bolts of lightning. Waves rippling through the grasses of the salt marsh told us the storm front was already upon us, and nothing to do but wait it out. The forest canopy began to toss back and forth. Finally, rain began falling on the roof of the old lighthouse and, through streaked windows, we watched the panorama unfold.

We had arrived just before the storm, after a 20-minute ferry ride from Deep Point Marina in Southport, North Carolina. On the early morning ferry ride, we enjoyed the acrobatics of brown pelicans diving for their breakfast. We hoped to photograph the birds in flight, but they fished too far away. After making a catch of fresh fish, however, they would land very near our boat to pose for photographs while enjoying their meal.

The first thing we noticed as the ferry entered the island’s harbor was the lighthouse, known affectionately as Old Baldy. The second was the absence of gasoline engines — prohibited on Bald Head Island as an environmental protection measure. Bicycles and battery-powered golf carts are the only forms of transportation. I had voted for bicycles, but Cathryn soon convinced me that carts would be the better option. As soon as we were zipping along one of the wide, paved pathways, I realized the wisdom of her choice. The absence of cars makes it possible to cruise silently to see and hear wildlife, especially birds, that would otherwise go unnoticed.

Our first stop of the day had been Old Baldy, where we witnessed the majesty of the storm. Built in 1817, this is North Carolina’s oldest standing lighthouse. For 86 years, she guided ships safely into the mouth of the Cape Fear River and serves today as a monument to North Carolina’s maritime heritage. According to one popular seafaring legend, a tall dune on the southeast side of the island was used by ships’ pilots watching the horizon for incoming ships. When ships were spotted, the pilot chosen for the job would row out to meet the ship and steer her safely across the shoals. The constant pacing back and forth had worn away all the sea oats from the brow of the dune, and this bare dune, visible from a great distance at sea, resembled the head of a bald man. Is this the true explanation for the island’s name? True or not, the story is characteristic of the rich and colorful history of the Carolina coast.

While circling the lighthouse, looking for the best angle for a photo, we discovered an open door. Having never been inside a lighthouse, there was nothing to do but step inside and have a look around. When we saw the staircase winding up and around the walls, we never hesitated but climbed straight to the top. Getting through the hole in the top floor requires a special strategy — hats off and get close to the ladder! Once on top, we could look out over the entire island and far away into the endless blue Atlantic.

The northern half of Bald Head Island is covered by salt marsh and tidal creeks. From our vantage point, we could make out some of the nature trails, maintained by the Bald Head Island Conservancy, that meander through the marshy areas. The Conservancy, a non-profit organization, ensures that the unique natural resources of the island are preserved. The Conservancy’s Sea Turtle Protection Program has attracted national attention and was featured on public television. The turtle nesting activity on Bald Head accounts for a significant percentage of all nests in North Carolina.

Beach patrols, supervised by the Island Naturalist, locate nesting turtles and monitor hatchlings to provide basic research information and to educate visitors. In addition to turtle walks, the Bald Head Island Conservancy sponsors guided nature tours, kayaking adventures, bird walks, and alligator walks, as well as birding and fishing workshops. The Conservancy also offers reptile encounters, and “Bald Head After Dark” nighttime wildlife tours. Numerous educational programs are designed specifically for young people. So many species of birds inhabit the island that the Audubon Society has designated Bald Head Island an “Important Bird Area.” Information is available by calling the Conservancy at (910) 457-0089 or visiting their website.

When the storm finally moved away from the island, Cathryn and I descended the lighthouse stairway and again set out to explore. Fourteen miles of beach, covered with powder-fine sand and bordered by dunes and sea oats, lured us to the sea. We stood in the emerald green surf off the southern shore and allowed the incoming tide to wash shells over our feet. We collected Calico Scallops, Coquina, Angel Wing, Lightning Whelk, and Tooth Shell, all in about 30 minutes. Cathryn gave her just-found treasures to the young daughter of a vacationing family from Rockville, Maryland. These family members were the only other people we saw within a mile of us on the beach.

Our last stop for the day was back at Old Baldy, but this time the focus of attention was the quaint post office and the beautiful Village Chapel. Something about the chapel imbues an attitude of reverence and reflection; maybe it’s the stained glass or maybe the polished glow of exposed beams. Local clergy hold services here each Sunday morning at 8:30 and 10:00 a.m., and this romantic setting is the site of weddings on most Saturdays during the year.

At the end of the day, we sat in rocking chairs on the wide, covered porch near the marina. With our eyes closed and the ocean breezes cooling our sunburns, we enjoyed recounting the day’s activities and planned our next visit to Bald Head Island.

VISITOR INFORMATION

GETTING TO BALD HEAD ISLAND

Bald Head Island is reached by private passenger ferry, a 20-minute ride from Southport, which is located at the southeastern tip of North Carolina, just south of Wilmington.

FERRY INFORMATION

  • Location: Deep Point Marina, 1301 Ferry Road, Southport, NC 28461
  • Schedule: The ferry leaves the mainland on the hour and leaves Bald Head Island on the half hour. Ferry operates hourly between approximately 7 a.m. and midnight (hours vary by season and day of the week).
  • Tickets: Round-trip tickets cost $23 for adults and $12 for children ages 3-12. Children 2 and under are free but still need a ticket.
  • Reservations: Recommended, especially during summer weekends and holidays. Purchase tickets online at baldheadislandferry.com, via mobile app, or at the ticket window.
  • Phone: (910) 457-5003 (departing Deep Point) or (910) 457-5006 (departing Bald Head Island)
  • Parking: Available at Deep Point Marina. General Lot parking is $12 per day (Memorial Day-Labor Day) and $10 per day (remainder of year).

OLD BALDY LIGHTHOUSE & SMITH ISLAND MUSEUM

North Carolina’s oldest standing lighthouse (built 1817) offers breathtaking 360-degree views of the island and Cape Fear River from the top of its 108 stairs.

  • Hours:
  • Spring: Tuesday-Saturday 10 a.m.-4 p.m., Sunday 11 a.m.-4 p.m.
  • Summer (after Memorial Day): Tuesday-Saturday 9 a.m.-5 p.m., Sunday 11 a.m.-5 p.m.
  • Fall (after Labor Day): Tuesday-Saturday 10 a.m.-4 p.m., Sunday 11 a.m.-4 p.m.
  • Lighthouse closes 30 minutes before the museum’s closing time
  • Open March through December
  • Closed select holidays including Thanksgiving, Christmas Eve, Christmas Day, New Year’s Eve, and New Year’s Day
  • Admission: $6 adults (13+), $3 youth (3-12), under 3 free
  • Island History Tours: Available Tuesdays, Fridays, and Saturdays. 2-hour guided golf cart tours include Old Baldy admission and a 10% gift shop discount. Cost: $35 per person. Reservations required.
  • Website: oldbaldy.org

BALD HEAD ISLAND CONSERVANCY

The non-profit Conservancy (founded in 1983) protects the island’s unique ecosystems and offers numerous educational programs for all ages.

  • Location: 700 Federal Road, Bald Head Island (Johnston Center for Coastal Sustainability)
  • Phone: (910) 457-0089
    • Programs Include:
    • Turtle Walks (May-August, witness nesting mothers or hatchlings)
    • Nest Excavations (July-October)
    • Sea Turtle Patrol Ride-Alongs
    • Guided Kayak Tours through salt marshes
    • Birding Tours
    • Island Nature Tours (beach, marsh, and maritime forest)
    • “Bald Head After Dark” nighttime wildlife tours
    • Reptile Round-Up (meet ambassador animals)
    • Maritime Forest Hikes
    • Fishing Schools
    • Summer camps for all ages
  • Website: bhic.org
  • Note: Many programs are free or discounted for Conservancy members

THE VILLAGE CHAPEL

A beautiful chapel with stained glass and polished exposed beams.

  • Services: Sundays at 8:30 a.m. (traditional) and 10:00 a.m. (contemporary), with different visiting ministers each week
  • Weddings: Popular venue for island weddings (capacity: 110)
  • The Chapel is always open for prayer

ISLAND TRANSPORTATION

No cars are allowed on Bald Head Island. Transportation options include:

  • Golf Cart Rentals: Essential for exploring the island
  • Always Ready Golf Carts: (910) 457-4497
  • Cary Cart Company: (910) 457-7333 ext. #1
  • Bicycle Rentals: Available from Riverside Adventure Company and other vendors
  • Walking: The lighthouse is a 5-minute walk from the ferry terminal

DINING & AMENITIES

  • Multiple restaurants and cafes near the marina
  • Sandpiper Café (ice cream and casual fare)
  • Delphina Cantina
  • Pelicantessen (at BHI Club)
  • Maritime Market (grocery store)
  • Gift shops and boutiques

EDITOR’S NOTES – CORRECTIONS AND UPDATES

Changes Made:

  1. Ferry Departure Point: UPDATED from “Indigo Plantation” to Deep Point Marina, 1301 Ferry Road, Southport, NC. The ferry terminal has been completely modernized with a 40,000-square-foot facility.
  2. Ferry Duration: CONFIRMED as 20 minutes (no change).
  3. Ferry Pricing: UPDATED to current rates: $23 adults, $12 children ages 3-12, free for children 2 and under.
  4. Ferry Schedule: CLARIFIED that ferries depart mainland on the hour and island on the half hour. Schedule varies by season.
  5. Parking Fees: UPDATED. General lot parking is now $12/day (summer season, Memorial Day-Labor Day) and $10/day (off-season). Your original article mentioned $10 parking fee but didn’t specify seasonal variations.
  6. Old Baldy Admission: UPDATED to current prices: $6 adults (13+), $3 youth (3-12), under 3 free. Hours now vary by season (spring/fall vs. summer).
  7. Old Baldy Tours: NEW FEATURE added. Island History Tours are now available Tuesdays, Fridays, and Saturdays for $35 per person, including a guided golf cart tour and Old Baldy admission.
  8. Village Chapel Services: UPDATED. Now offers two Sunday services: 8:30 a.m. (traditional) and 10:00 a.m. (contemporary). Your original article mentioned only the 8:30 a.m. service.
  9. Conservancy Phone Number: CONFIRMED as (910) 457-0089 (no change).
  10. Information Center Contact: UPDATED. The main contact is now through the ferry website (baldheadislandferry.com) and Deep Point Marina phone numbers rather than the old “Information Center” address on Southport Supply Highway.

New Features & Programs Added:

  • Expanded Conservancy Programs: The Conservancy now offers many more programs than mentioned in your original article:
  • “Bald Head After Dark” nighttime wildlife tours
  • Reptile Round-Up with ambassador animals
  • Maritime forest hikes
  • Nest excavations (3 days after hatching)
  • Sea Turtle Patrol ride-alongs
  • Multiple kayaking options
  • Island History Tours: Professional guided tours are now available multiple days per week
  • Improved Ferry Terminal: 40,000-square-foot facility with indoor/outdoor waiting areas, restrooms, and seasonal café
  • Golf Cart Services: Expanded with multiple rental companies
  • Audubon Recognition: Island now officially designated as an “Important Bird Area” by the Audubon Society
  • LEED Certified Conservancy Building: The Johnston Center for Coastal Sustainability features salvaged wood, rainwater collection, and energy-efficient design

Information Removed or Changed:

  • Summer Camp & Sunset Cruises: Your original article mentioned “summer camp for kids and sunset cruises up the Cape Fear River” with phone (910) 457-7500. I could not confirm that these specific programs are still offered with that contact number.
  • Tram Tours: Your original article mentioned trams as “the only form of mass transit” with reservations at (919) 457-5003. Tram service still exists but is now primarily for luggage/passenger transport from the ferry to accommodations rather than island tours. The main tours are now golf cart-based through the Old Baldy Foundation.
  • Indigo Plantation: This was the old name for the ferry departure location; it’s now simply called Deep Point Marina.
  • King Mackerel Tournament: Could not confirm the current status of the U.S. Open King Mackerel Fishing Tournament in Southport mentioned in your original article.

Important Note:

The island remains car-free, maintains its pristine natural character, and continues to be nationally recognized for sea turtle conservation. The basic character and appeal of Bald Head Island that you described in your original article remain wonderfully intact.